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Monday, August 1, 2011

Life and Lies of Bhangarh


The milestones, the kilometers that have gone,
Excitement and smiles from dusk to dawn,
The ruins that have lost the charm through ages,
A history unwritten in the dark of pages,
The eyes are delusional and beauty is obsolete,
From mile to mile, another Journey we complete.


My fellow mates would never approve of this troublesome adventure we had couple of days ago, never mind I am sure Robert Frost would turn in his grave after having his rather amazing poem interpreted in such a mannerism which he would in his senses never approve, well much to his discomfort and to our excitement we did what he said and landed up in the middle of nowhere.

I have never really prized my inability to find roads but then that’s how we enjoy with the uncertainty principle , if you know me properly I have never really found out a way but eventually I get to my destination, but of course there are diversions and detours but then what's life without a few twists and turns (my driver would disagree on this) and plus it’s not every day that I take my Innova to 150 km/hr, next Reliance and Airtel would boast of their 3G and what not, but to be entirely honest with you , nothing of that sorts really work , out there in the open you are on your own , your brain is your 3G and your eyes your map , one wrong turn and you can find yourself in serious trouble . Once again I’d like to mention that trouble had followed me everywhere be it France, Germany and now finally India but I somehow manage to get out and this time I got a little help as well primarily from Sid , I can’t exactly say he was of much help but at least he kept us entertained for a bit .

Starting with the trip finally, I must warn you not to trust Google maps ever in your life when you are in India, it nearly got us mauled at our respective places, so we started late and got stuck again in traffic and at random construction sites which didn't really help us, starved and bored we eventually decided to make a quick stop at 80th milestone to Jaipur which offered some relief to our perturbed souls as we were already very late but we were determined to make it to Bhangarh at any cost so we continued our way, next we took a turn towards Dausa. I have traveled a lot on Indian roads and I can assure you that a SH or a state highway is pathetically built and is more like a make-shift concrete road but to my surprise it was one of the finest roads I have seen in my life (not in comparison to the German Autobahn), anyways my off-roader was soaring at unexpected speeds and after 5 minutes we would have to stop to ask for the way and to out actual surprise this time we were lost because the highly literate (!) people told us to continue on the same road for 20 odd kilometers and then we actually traveled 100 kilometers like that and lost a lot of time, it would be a sin if I don't mention the sights and the hills there, the rays of the sun kissing the clouds and the shimmering effect creating mirages on roads adding to moment , after getting exhausted and really worried we finally found out the way and this time it wasn't 20 kilometers , it was 15 (one would think that we are all bunch of retards crying for 5 kms but trust me, you would as well).

The sun was at the hilt and the climate wasn't really the best but we were really determined and then it was there, the Bhangarh ruins stood in front of us , only the looked much less horrific as compared to their descriptions on Aajtak and random blogs . Bhangarh , one can debate is a ram-shackled shack from a distance and I would think twice before entering the premises at night,  it’s one of those places you have seen in those ridiculous horror shows on TV which tell you not to mess about such places , I won't totally agree to whatever is written on the internet about such places . We had traveled about 310 kilometers on a useless national highway, an amazing stretch of state highway and then no roads at all. When our patience was finally about to give in, we spotted the board. For namesake though , the Archeological survey of India keeps the "monument" in one piece (well at least they try to , but shameless lovers never really understand that by writing names on the grey walls their love doesn't become immortal , all they do is just ruin one of the few remaining monuments). We got down and entered the fortifications of the ever so dangerous ruins, it is about 1.6 km walk roughly to the main ruins, and the road is flanked by what used to be a market, dance halls and a few temples in and around the vicinity. The first few 900 meters is a straight road which finally leads to a big arch of a gate through which you make your way to the royal gardens where you can spot a monkey or two sitting around sunbathing , the remaining leg of the trek is divided into a steep climb (which is actually very steep) and the rest by broken stairs and hidden passages to the main shrine , it took us a lot of effort to climb the main galley only to find bats above us sleeping in peace, it was a very good idea indeed not to use flash there or we would risk a few lives for sure (or maybe a few faces ). Then my friends got so engrossed in clicking pictures especially Sid...after clicking some fantabulous pictures and about 20 minutes I just gave the camera to the models and got lost in the view.


For a moment I closed my eyes and imagined how the place look on a perfect moonlit night , then on an another instant I looked up saw the Aravalli hills mushrooming all over the place , it is not exactly the way one would define beauty, but to me it did make a lot of sense , it’s weird how I appreciate my ability to spot beauty in ruins , maybe sometimes all it takes is change of vision , it’s always easy to find and nurture beauty in good things but it’s very difficult to locate it where you least expect it, Bhangarh similarly is one such beauty lost in the sands of time .

With that thought, another wind blows and it was time for us to bid goodbye to that place but I promised to myself that I would return to this place once again to enjoy the view. I forgot to mention, Abhishek, one of our friends got a cut his hand while posing for a photograph and things went completely turbulent after that. The locals were hell-bent on making us believe that the fort’s ghost did that to him. I don't really believe in that nonsense  but yes from that very moment the road wasn't the same for us , literally , all of us got very late on the way and got home at about midnight , about 210 kilometers and a thousand excuses; later we were at my place , tired and scared , a memory in all our hearts . We won’t forget this trip for a long time.


Like Robert Frost said, we took the road less traveled and that has made all the difference. 

Adios Amigos 
Piyush

Saturday, January 22, 2011

20 Days of Incredible India with my Student Organisation - Madli Pindmaa


I was lucky enough to spend three weeks in June 2010 in India with AEGEE (European Students’ Forum), which is the biggest interdisciplinary student association in Europe. 2010 marked a special year to AEGEE not only because it got 25 years old but also due to the fact that for the first time in history it sent its members to explore other continents. The case-study trip (CST) to India was part of a bigger project called Beyond Europe and it involved sending 20 participants from Europe to India and working with topics related to United Nations’ Millenium Development Goals (UN MDGs).

We started out the project in Baroda, a small and very untouristy city in India with ca 1.5 mln inhabitants in Gujarat state and ended up in New Delhi, a buzzing capital of this incredible country. The aim of the CST India was to empower young people in Europe to contribute to the achievement of the UN MDGs and thus all the program was related to getting to know the respective situation in India.

During the time in India our days were full of different visits to schools, hospitals, NGOs, slums, and other projects where we managed to get an overview of their activities, ask questions, as well as carry out our own program on the spot. One of the best days for me was when we were split into smaller groups and my group was visiting a waste pickers’ union in a really hardcore slum to talk about their life as well as to answer any questions they had. Being a regular tourist one would never be able to access this kind of slums without some confrontations leave alone getting that personal contact of the inhabitants. For all the participants in our group this was a really big experience that also broadened our mind a lot.

Additional highlights for me were for instance a drawing competition we made for different primary schools, a tour by a former street child in Delhi, going door-to-door in a slum making a questionnaire with local students, and a visit to a traditional Indian family in a remote village.  

After these 3 weeks it is still hard to describe India in only couple of sentences. It really is a mix of everything – shiny happy people, cows, elephants, camels and dirt on the street, amazing culture and music, deeply rooted religion, extreme poverty versus extreme wealth, etc etc. Also, imagine a challenge you’d have when being in India for the first time and having to organise a 3 weeks of program for ca 30 people. Despite we had local partners in India, the program was organised by a team of young Europeans, and by the end of the event we can say they were very successful beating their challenge…  

All in all, after getting an initial grasp of the country and realising how chaotic it was, I figured out that there is still a structure in this kind of country and nothing will be undone despite it is done a bit differently than we Europeans are used to. ;) And of course, three weeks is not enough to get a whole picture of India – thus I’m looking forward to my return to this country to explore more.

If you’re interested in reading more about our activities in India then during the CST we also kept a blog that is written by different participants and can be found here: http://cstindia.wordpress.com/ While CST India was only one part of the Beyond Europe’s UN MDG’s initiative, then you can check more information about other activities here: http://www.projects.aegee.org/beyondeurope/ And if you want to get more up-to-date about UN MDGs and their progress, feel free to check: http://www.un.org/millenniumgoals/reports.shtml    

Madli Pindmaa